Essential Dog Grooming Tips: Frequency, Nail Care, Puppy Prep & Coat Health
Keep Your Pup Looking & Feeling Great
We want to empower you with the knowledge to keep your dog comfortable and gorgeous between salon visits! Grooming is much more than just a haircut — it’s essential care.
Why Grooming is Absolutely Essential
Grooming does so much for your dog’s health.
- Washing the coat blasts away dirt and loose hair.
- It removes excess oils stuck in the fur, preventing that ‘doggy smell’.
- Brushing stimulates the coat to produce its natural, healthy oils.
- A neat trim keeps your dog looking fantastic and drastically cuts down on painful knots.
How Often Should We Groom? (The Quick Rule)
Every breed is different, but here’s the quick rule:
Aim for a full groom every 4 to 6 weeks.
This keeps their coat in top condition and manageable.
Shorter coats might stretch that to 8-10 weeks, but don’t forget the nails as these are growing constantly.
Your groomer should always handle nail clipping. Letting them get too long makes trimming harder and can cause real discomfort later on.
Puppy’s First Haircut: When to Go?
It’s all about positive early exposure to the grooming process.
As soon as your little one has had their second vaccinations and is cleared for outdoor walks — usually around 10 to 12 weeks — it’s time for their first visit.
Don’t wait past 16 weeks.
This first salon trip is wonderful exposure. Getting them used to the sights and sounds early on sets them up for a stress-free grooming life.
Nail Care: The Non-Negotiable Trim
Absolutely, non-negotiable.
Dog nails grow constantly and need trimming every 3 to 4 weeks.
If nails get too long they can:
- Hurt your dog’s feet and strain tendons.
- Contribute to arthritis over time.
- Force them to walk awkwardly, sometimes even walking on their own nails.
Let’s keep those paws happy and comfortable.
What Exactly is a Welfare Groom?
This is all about putting your dog’s comfort first.
The Animal Welfare Act protects dogs from unnecessary suffering. If a coat is severely matted, trying to brush it out causes too much pain.
In these crucial cases, a groomer will clip the fur very short to instantly relieve the pain. A welfare groom might not look pretty, but it’s a vital act of care for your pet’s well-being.
Spotting and Handling Ticks
Ticks are tiny spiders waiting in the grass. They latch on and burrow into your dog’s skin to feed.
Always check, even if they’re on medication, as ticks can carry diseases!
How to Check for Ticks:
- Run your hands slowly all over your dog, fingers deep into the fur, feeling for hard bumps.
- Ticks love hiding behind the ears, in the armpits, under the tail, and between the toes.
- When feeding, they swell up, going from pinhead size to a baked bean size.
Crucial Tip: Never pull or tug! This can leave the head embedded, leading to infection. Use proper removal tools or ask your groomer for advice.
Those Red/Orange Face Stains? It’s Saliva!
If you see reddish, brownish, or pinkish stains, it’s likely caused by saliva.
Dogs often lick one spot repeatedly. Their saliva contains porphyrins, which literally dyes the fur when repeated.
You might also see this staining around the eyes, paws, mouth or rear due to urine.
Decoding Dog Coat Types (7 Main Variations)
Just like breeds, fur types vary wildly. Some dogs mix and match, but here are the seven main variations:
1. Smooth Coat
- Low maintenance and sheds easily every 4-12 weeks. Lies flat for a shiny look.
- Tip: Use a gentle de-shedding shampoo, as these coats can be sensitive.
- Examples: Dachshund, French Bulldog, Greyhound.
2. Short Coat
- Naturally coarser than smooth coats. This texture can trap oils, leading to that familiar “doggy smell”.
- Regular bathing helps manage the odor from trapped oils.
- Examples: Beagle, Labrador Retriever, Pug.
3. Double Coat (Long or Short)
- Has two layers: a soft, insulating undercoat and a protective outer guard coat.
- The thick undercoat sheds heavily, usually seasonally (“blowing coat”). Regular brushing is vital to prevent matting.
- Examples: German Shepherd, Husky, Collie.
4. Long Coat (Drop Coat)
- These are often considered non-shedding and grow continuously, meaning they require trimming.
- They need brushing multiple times a week to prevent painful knots.
- Examples: Yorkshire Terrier, Maltese, Bearded Collie.
5. Wire Coat (Wire-Haired)
- The outer coat is hard and textured for protection.
- Grooming mimics the double coat: regular brushing keeps it knot-free.
- Examples: Schnauzer, Fox Terrier, Border Terrier.
6. Curly Coat
- Also generally non-shedding and can range from wavy to tightly curled.
- Regular brushing is a must to stop mats and tangles! Plan for trims about every 6 weeks.
- Examples: Poodle, Bichon Frise, Cockerpoo.
7. Hairless
- They still need care. Their skin is often very sensitive.
- Only use shampoos specifically designed for sensitive skin needs.
- Examples: Chinese Crested.
Brush vs. Comb: Which Tool Wins?
There’s no single champion. The best tool depends entirely on the coat type and what you’re trying to achieve.
Brushes
- Slicker Brush: Your go-to for breaking up existing knots, tangles, and mats.
- Wire-Pin Brush: Best for medium to long or curly hair.
- Bristle Brush: Good for all coats. Use it for shine and surface cleaning.
Combs
Combs are excellent for getting right down to the skin base and are fantastic for checking your work or diagnosing exactly where matting starts.
Use them after brushing to show all of the knots have gone.